But a tree is a living organism and even if best practices are followed, there is no guarantee that a tree will survive by being taken out of one place and transplanted somewhere else. The roots of trees and shrubs normally grow far beyond the volume of soil that can be moved. To keep most roots within a small area, prune roots in spring or fall before transplanting. Plants that move in autumn (October or November) should be pruned roots in March, and plants that move in spring (March) should be pruned roots in October.
Prune roots only after leaves have fallen from deciduous plants in autumn or before buds sprout in the spring. Plants can suffer serious damage if done at other times. The roots within the pruned area develop many branches and form a strong root system within a confined area. If the root is not pruned, the plant may die from transplant shock due to root loss.
The time of year depends on the type of tree. Most trees do better when they move in late fall or early spring, while they are inactive. Evergreens usually work best with a spring transplant, giving them time to grow new roots during the summer. Avoid transplanting less than about 6 weeks before stressful weather ahead, such as peak summer heat or winter frost.
If you are unsure, check with your local extension offices or tree care companies for the specific hours of your area and the type of tree. Transplanting a large tree from the field to the garden provides immediate shade, a visual focal point and vertical interest. Although the effect is much faster than waiting for a seedling to grow, the transplant does not happen overnight, so plan well in advance when you are going to transplant a large tree. Usually, a large tree loses a significant part of its roots in a transplant.
This makes it difficult for the tree to recover once it is replanted to a new location. The key to successfully transplanting a large tree is to help the tree grow roots that can travel with it to its new location. If you are transplanting a large tree in October, prune the root in March. If you are moving mature trees in March, prune the roots in October.
You never prune the root of a deciduous tree unless it has lost its leaves in a dormant state. Six months after root pruning, return to the tree and tie up the branches again. Dig a trench about one foot (31 cm). Dig down until you can undermine the earthen ball at an angle of about 45 degrees.
With an adequate supply of water and nutrients, a seedling or sapling will continue to grow healthy until the roots are confined to a container or other barrier. In most cases, the root system extends beyond the extension of the branches and a considerable part of the roots are cut off when the tree is moved. It is easier to successfully establish smaller trees than larger trees. Regardless of size, newly planted trees experience a period of transplanted shock during which they are very vulnerable to stress.
By proper planting and regular early care aimed at rapid root development, you can shorten the shock period of the transplant and significantly increase the likelihood of survival. The leaves of deciduous trees wither and, if corrective action is not taken immediately, may eventually turn brown and fall. Water stress, in turn, can reduce the ability of leaves to produce carbohydrates (energy), slow the growth of all parts of the tree, and subject the tree to many other environmental and pest-related problems. Most newly planted trees are subject to stress-related problems due to the enormous loss of roots when excavated in the nursery.
Your chances of success are improved if you prune the tree with roots a year or two before the actual transplant. This law encourages the growth of new feeder roots (which absorb water and nutrients) closer to the base of the tree to help the tree better adapt to its new location. Growing the root and top of a four-inch gauge tree after transplanting A 4″ gauge tree would have a root diameter of 18 feet. While replanting the tree once again is restarting the stressful process, it's probably best for your tree if the planting site wasn't quite right the first time around.
In humid places, a tree can be planted so that one third of the root ball is above the original grade (Figures 2B and 2C). Trees that grow in loose, well-drained soil, such as sandy soil, will have more extensive or extensive root systems than trees that grow in hard, poorly drained soil, such as compact clay. Even so, you should start your project much earlier; tree roots must be pruned several months before transplanting to help the tree thrive in its new location. The initial root development of a newly planted tree is supported by energy (carbohydrates) stored in the trunk, branch and root tissues.
Often, the crown and trunk area of the tree shows a change in color to indicate the ground level at its previous location. Calculate how much of the root ball is the root cluster at the base of your tree that you intend to prune. Start pruning the roots by marking a circle of the desired ball size around the tree or shrub, and then dig a trench just outside the circle. The time needed to establish a transplanted tree can be better understood by comparing the root restoration of a one-inch tree to that of a four-inch tree.
Ask for the help of a friend, rented equipment or a professional if necessary to ensure that the tree has a safe trip. . .